WAKE UP!!

242

good morning. 6 am aloha friday. surfed and paddle boarded yesterday and will probably do the same today. i’ve been eating healthy, haven’t touched a beer in a long time, been doing yoga, and feel great. almost packed up but have a problem. spearguns are now illegal to take into padang international airport. i have 3 i was taking and now i have to figure out a way to get it in. does anybody know if i can send them from bali to padang? how much it will cost, and how long it will take? please let me know because going on a boat trip without my spearguns is like going on a boat trip without my surfboards. HELP!!
wow, i’m checking the waves now and bowls looks really clean and fun. looks bigger and better than yesterday. seen a 2 footer just peel perfectly all the way through the lineup with nobody on it. see you out there!!

when i was at tracks the other day, i pulled my car up and when i got out, something smelt funny. i looked down at my feet and seen the most disgusting thing. a pig carcass. yeah, some pig hunters caught a pig in the mountains, went to tracks, and dumped the skin and guts, and took home the pork.
my question is: why would you dump such a thing at a beautiful beach that kids and families enjoy everyday?

this surfer pulled over and started to bury it with the sand. this local said to me “gosh, how the hell can anybody do something like this?” and shook his head….

these guys buried the stinky pig and hopefully the smell will go away in a month or so. or maybe 3 months or so….
**who ever did this couldn’t be a surfer, fisherman, diver, or anybody that has anything to do with the ocean. if you love the ocean as much as we do, you won’t do something foolish like this. next time, at least throw it in the ocean so the sharks can eat it, or throw it in the mountains so the tigers can eat it, or throw it in your enemies back yard. or better yet, throw it in the rubbish can where it belongs. not on the white sandy beaches of hawaii….. mahalo[:?????$B!x(B???:]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide