timing is everything. i took my friend and his kid surfing yesterday and today and we scored the most perfect waves! yesterday was completely glassy and the waves as perfect as it can be. it was raining so nobody was at the beach or in the water. it was just us having fun. then today it was really sunny and hot in the morning. the winds were super strong onshore. but as we were driving to the beach, a huge black cloud came and the winds switched straight offshore. perfect waves again for my friend and his cute kid. i’m having so much fun surfing these days!!!!
then i came home and the electricity in my neighborhood was off. no lights, no computer, or no nothing. so i laid down on my nice sofa and took the most peaceful nap in a long time. then guess what woke me up? the lights came back on. shit!
when we started go-naminori, i didn’t even have enough money but i decided to rent a house on the north shore at rocky point for our team. i just wanted to create a good feeling and let people stay there for free. we had it for almost 2 months and when it was over, it was pretty sad. and now that the surfing industry isn’t doing too well, i’m trying to work hard so i can rent another go-naminori house on the north shore in the next season or so. and if i do, everybody can stay there for free! wish me luck!
an average house on the north shore like that cost over $7,000/month. i still can’t believe i rented that place with the budget we had. but i never live with regrets as a lot of happy memories come out of that house. my next dream rental house will be right in front of pipeline! that’s my big dream and don’t be surprised if it comes soon. see you there!
