good morning. my legs and arms are like rubber from the swim yesterday. can’t surf or dive. going to do something different today. stay tuned for photos later…
i love playing around with my equipment. i take a spear gun apart, do all kinds of funky things to it, tune it up, paint it, and try out different combinations. see this gun? wait till you see how it turned out. sick!! can’t wait to use it…
i went to sams club the other day to buy something. when i was leaving, i smelt the chicken so i couldn’t help but order one. this is a half chicken plate that cost about $5 and weights around 3 lbs or 1 kilo. i tried to eat it all but couldn’t. sorry…
i wanted to thank toda-san for taking some amazing photos of me in the mentawai. i was pretty much shooting all day until it got dark and then i would grab my board and paddle out for a sunset barrel before bintang time. toda-san would grab my camera and shoot my waves. i’m stoked because those will now be lifetime memories. thank you toda-san. as for the cat face, that’s what happens when you lose “rich man poor man”. haha…
**and last, got an email from shun yesterday. so here’s my reply:
shun, how are you? thanks for your email. how’s your surfing? everything is good in hawaii. seth is surfing good. he just had the state championship contest at bowls this past weekend and lost. oh my gosh!!! he and josh are going to california this summer for the national contest. i hope he does better. i hope you and everybody in yugawara are doing fine. please tell everybody i said hello. shun, when you surf contests this year, be aggressive. your surfing level is so high now. all you have to do is catch 2 good waves in a heat and you will win. just paddle around and get aggressive. don’t let the bigger boys take your waves. take theirs and if they say something to you, tell them that uncle kirby’s waiting in hawaii for them. haha. just joking. i’m sure your day of winning every contest you enter will come. just be confident and surf every heat like it’s your last. you will do good and i’ll always be cheering for you!! come to hawaii anytime. the boys are waiting for you….
**P.S remember this? only 50,000 people saw this video…
