tokura-san and naoka came here 5 days ago. since they have been staying right in front of bowls, we’ve been surfing at bowls everyday. the waves have been fun and the weathers been perfect. i pulled up yesterday morning and seen it pretty empty. so instead of going out there and surfing a wave i surf everyday, i decided to paddle out with my camera and get some shots of the boys. tokura-san is living a pretty happy life now. surf, snowboard, and travel. i wonder where he’s going next??
i met naoka 4 years ago. since then, i’ve seen him turn from salary man to happy surfer. i keep on telling him that if he keeps on working hard, he can live a fabulous life and mix surf in with work. he’s on the right track because if he wasn’t, he’d be sitting in an office in tokyo wondering “what if?”
anyway, wanted to wish tokura-san and naoka a safe flight back to japan. i’ll be seeing you very soon!! once the typhoons start coming, i’m on a flight living out of my suitcase again. i’m “always searching for the perfect wave….”
