good morning. had an awesome dinner last night in tokyo but forgot to take photos. i was just too busy enjoying it. i would write about it but decided not too because nobody would believe me anyway. just let me say this, “I felt like a King.” well, going to do some last minute shopping, head to the airport, get back to hawaii early tomorrow morning, and go straight for a surf. i know the feeling of catching that first wave in a long time, and i’m looking forward to it!
want to hear a surfer survival story? first, this is the naga laut boat in the mentawai. the same boat we chartered last year. well, a few days ago, a south african team started out their $40,000+ dream charter on the very same boat. on the way out to the mentawai islands, it was very rough. then one of the guys got seasick and went on the deck to throw up over the side. he ended up falling over into the dark rough seas. it was 3am and the nagu laut kept its path to the mentawai islands. it wasn’t until morning when his friends noticed him missing. they turned around and went to look for him with no success. 28 hours later, another surf charter the barrenjoey found him! after dehydration, shark encounters, jellyfish stings, and seagulls pecking his face, he survived! the barrenjoey returned him to the naga laut, and he decided to surf and finish up the charter. what an amazing story. to many people, it is probably a miracle? but to us surfers, it’s just survival. i’m not surprised at all this guy survived and if you are a good surfer, you will survive a lot of obstacles in life. so keep on surfing!
here is the path of this guys survival trip. one of the coolest surfer stories in a while.
and now lets talk about skiing and snowboarding. check out this video of my good friend skiing and snowboarding on Mount Fuji. this is Toda-san! haha!!!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWjI4lTLrPc[/youtube]
