i woke up in the airplane and we were already over oahu. and since we flew in from the diamond head direction, i knew the winds were south/west. it was pretty cool doing a surf check from the window of the airplane. i was so excited that it felt like it was my first trip to hawaii!!!!
i rushed home, and made my power breakfast. i love it! then i drank my kombucha, started to do my exercise routine, checked emails, and went for a surf.
the winds were onshore and ugly. if i didn’t travel, i wouldn’t even bother paddling out on a day like today. but since i haven’t surfed for 2 weeks, i felt like it was my first session all over again. the waves were actually super good. head high and long lefts at bowls. only a few guys out so i scored! i swam all the way in for more exercise as i have to burn off all the food i ate in japan. give me one more day and i’ll be back to normal.
as i drove home looking at the blue sky and coconut trees, i thought to myself “i’m the luckiest guy in the world. i have a lot of good friends, i have the best job, i surf, and i live in my paradise.” i haven’t loved my life any more that i do right now at this moment!
