Live Your Life!

176

ss-130418-twip-13.ss_full
this is recently in bali. i’ve been to bali about 30 times and rode these low-cost airplanes more times i can count. airplanes are made to fly, but realistically, they do crash sometimes. the thing i don’t like is i’m not driving so i’m not in control of the situation. but once it crashes, i’m in control of my own destiny. i know i won’t panic because free diving taught me not to panic in any situation. if my plane is crashing, i will tighten my seat belt, hold on tight, and close my eyes. once i wake up and if i’m still alive, i will go into survival mode. i already know where the closest emergency exit is because i always check before take off. i will open the door, and throw people off. then i will jump off and run for my life. then i will get the next flight back to hawaii, probably the same low-cost airline company. haha.
i always stress to enjoy every minute of your life as it’s your last. we live in a world where your life could end in a second. some things you can control, some things you can’t. airplanes, you can’t control. 20 years ago, i would tell myself “i would never ride in Lion airlines again!” i use to say the same thing when China Airlines crashed, and Garuda Airlines crashed. but i still ride those airlines and will continue doing so. you can’t run, or you can’t hide from things you can’t control, so my advise is to just go with the flow and enjoy every single minute of your life. and if you can do that, i won’t feel sorry for you if your airplane crashes because i will know you went down a happy person. and if i go down in an airplane, just wanted to say “it was nice knowing you all! and keep on surfing!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide