Japan Roots…

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good morning. small waves around the island. the waves came down everywhere. chest high sets if you know where to look. no contest at bowls. sunny, trade winds, and another nice day here in hawaii. enjoy!!

the other night we were at the nakamoto’s house. we were talking about our japanese roots. mine is from hiroshima and kumamoto. the nakamoto’s weren’t too clear where one side of their ancestors were from. so mrs. nakamoto got out all these papers in japanese and toda-san and takami-san started to investigate. after an hour or so, i think the nakamoto’s have a much clearer picture of their roots. one day, and some day, i will take the time out to search mine too. i bet you anything that i have relatives all over in japan that don’t even know their my relatives. wouldn’t that be cool to find that out? could somebody point me in the right direction? should i go to the hiroshima and kumamoto city halls? what do i say? what do i ask for? i don’t even know my great grandparents parents names? they were the first generation that came to hawaii over a hundred years ago. did they even document things back then? help!!!

we all surfed kaisers yesterday. there were 8 of us in our group. there were 15 guys out already. so that made 23 people out at small kaisers. it was pretty crazy… they had the WQS contest at bowls in chest high inconsistent surf. i felt sorry for the guys. today is small too and i hope they don’t run the contest again. 2 sets per heat with 4 hungry pros? yikes. i’m glad i quit surfing contests a long time ago. if i still did, i wouldn’t be a happy person yesterday….

there are 2 situations when i gain a lot of weight. one is when i’m traveling in japan eating, eating, and eating. and the other is when toda-san is in hawaii. this past 2 weeks, i must ate more desert than i usually eat in 2 years. 2 x waioloa shave ice, and 2 times tutti fruitty yogurt. toda-san and takami-san are leaving today so i’m going on a strict healthy diet. it’s fish everyday from now….
anyway, wanted to wish toda-san and takami-san a safe flight back to japan. see you guys soon!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide