good evening. OOOOH MYYYY GOSSSSHHHH!!!! how perfect were the waves today? OMG! i surfed for 4.5 hours and had so much fun.
i checked diamond head early this morning and i knew that every single surf spot on this island was going to be perfect. perfect wind, perfect swell, and perfect weather. diamond head was so beautiful, and so was bowls where i surfed all day.
absolutely no clouds in the sky. only true blue!
i surfed with Kobayashi-san again this morning. i was so happy to see him surfing better and better. 2 levels up in 2 surf sessions. i’m just has happy as he is!
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Bac Nam pho for lunch. the best in hawaii!
then surfed again bowls this afternoon with Team Inaida-san. it’s been a while but once everybody caught their first wave, it was back to normal. good waves, good time, good smile, and good friends!
what a wonderful world we live in!!!
