Point Secret

297

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the waves yesterday morning were just perfect! i couldn’t believe how clean it was! no wind, glassy, perfect, and super sunny.
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Yoshida-san surfs super good. next year, i’m taking him to Pipeline!
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everybody that comes to hawaii to surf just loves it! warm water, blue sky, and perfect surf everyday. i always get super excited paddling out because i know i’m going to get good waves. i’m sure Yoshida-san is thinking the same.
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ala moana side was super small, but not our spot.
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i had my little digital camera, pulled it out, and took this cool bottom turn shot. nice wave Yoshida-san!
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then from super perfect weather in the morning, to a huge storm in the afternoon. the weather these past 2 days has been crazy! from paradise to storm. but hey, we live in hawaii so one hour later, it’s blue sky again!
got a really busy 3 weeks ahead. all kinds of things going on. fast life and loving it. work hard and play harder. see ya!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide