good evening. it was dark when i got up at 5 am to check the waves. it was pretty small so i was going to go back to sleep. then i looked over at shun and thought “the waves might be good enough for me but an average japanese surfer would be super stoked to surf waist high bowls with only 4 guys out.” so i wake up shun, and we go surf! i could barely stand up on the tiny waves but shun was ripping! he caught so many waves and kept on asking me how more time we have until we have to be at the airport. i said, 30 min, 15 min, and finally said to catch 2 more cause we have to go. shun seemed so happy and kept on telling me that he wanted to stay longer. japan is pretty much flat now so i understand why shun want’s to stay. shun’s a surfer!!! we paddled out before the sun rose and came back in at 7:30 am. he stuck his board and wet trunks in his board bag and we left. i could tell he was sad that there won’t be any blue, warm, trade winds for a while. i just hope shun takes his fire back to japan and lights everyone up!!! go shun!!!
on the way to the airport, shun was sleeping. i’m sure he had a great time in hawaii. and i’m sure everybody here enjoyed his competitiveness and great company. my sister, tony, and the boys were planning a sayonara party on thursday night because he was really supposed to leave on friday. well, things happen and there will always be other opportunities for this kid. shun is welcomed in hawaii anytime and we’re all waiting for him to come back!!
i was in waikiki this morning and seen the coolest thing. these 2 old timers were laughing and all smiles as they were walking back to their hotels. it’s awesome on what the ocean can provide us…. and as far as age? it’s never too late!!!
i was watching some footage tony took or maoh in keramas. i didn’t realize how big and perfect we got the waves. this is pretty dam good for march yeah? can’t wait to go back this year. hey mike in seattle, the hard drive is on the way! and to dave in kamogawa, the other hard drive is on the way! thanks you guys!!!
and last. no matter how hot and humid japan is, i will always eat ramen. the sweat dripping off my head into my ramen bowl makes it taste even better. haha… actually, it happened a few times and i still ate it. that’s how good japanese ramen is….
