Secret Spot Holiday!

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good evening, wow, went to check the waves this morning at ala moana and it was crazy crowded! hundreds of surfers, and thousands of cars. no parking and light winds so Watanabe-san and i went to check out my secret spot 20 minutes away. lots of parking, and only 5 surfers out at this perfect right and left. then it was 3 guys, then everybody went in and it was only us. the waves were super fun! i was so happy to be back at a surf spot where i learned how to surf. and was happy to have been able to share it with Watanabe-san.
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then we ate lunch at the best mexican restaurant in hawaii. i love it here! thank you Watanabe-san for a super fun day surfing and eating. hope you have a safe trip back to Guam and please tell my longtime friend Fred Mandiola i said hello! keep on shooting and keep on living the great life you have.
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my favorite enchilada plate with green sauce. $10.95 and very good amigo!
anyway, hope you all enjoyed this wonderful independence day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide