omg, i surfed for over 6 hours today! my eyes are burnt, my skin is black, and i’m feeling high. i was driving home today and forgot where i was going. just spacing out and day dreaming. i better drink a lot of water because i surely lost a lot of it. had a blast this morning surfing over 4 hours straight with Ogawa-san. super nice guy and good surfer. glad to see him catch so many sets at bowls.
and this afternoon, i took Miyako-san and Rika-chan surfing. so good to see these girls surfing so well and being so comfortable in the ocean. i might be tired, but i’m completely satisfied with another wonderful day. too tired to take the bike for a sunset spin. instead, going to go buy some shoes.
people ask me what i do for exercise? i surf! i went from a 33″ waist last year, to a 32″ waist earlier this year, to a 31″ waist now. i feel like i’m in top shape. thanks to surfing and eating awesome food. then when i travel next week, i’ll gain 2″ back. haha.
