i had such a great time with the Watanabe-san family this morning. it was their first time surfing and we kept on riding wave after wave for 2.5 hours. it was such a beautiful day in the ocean and i’m stoked to be a part of their first experience. after they got out of the water, they were super energetic. that’s what surfing can do to people. making everybody genki! then we headed to the health cove bar and ate the best acai bowl on the island. remember to order the “Mana Bowl.” to Watanabe-san, Michiko-san, and Noe-chan, thank you for a wonderful morning. see you on wednesday! get ready to Go-Naminori again!
i came home last night and watched the rip curl at padang padang in bali contest. the waves were pretty good. the waves were kind of tricky but not for my boy Mega Semadhi to win! i was super stoked to see him ripping every heat including the finals! Go-Mega!
the first time Mega came to hawaii, he stayed at my house. i’d take him and Garut around and it was so funny to see their facial expressions when experiencing things here. we’d go to costco and buy a rotisserie chicken and they couldn’t believe how fat it was. because the chickens in indo are so skinny. this was christmas 2006 in hawaii when these 2 boys were just kids. now their super star international surfers and champions.
hey Craig, nice snapper! steam or sashimi?
i took this from the back view when Marin was riding on front of my board. i turned down the wave on a big one and Marin was just looking at the face of the wave tripping out. next time he comes, i’m going to pull into a barrel with him on the nose. he will freak! haha.
