wow, the waves came up today! had another great day surfing with everyone! 2 sessions at 4.5 hours! sunburned but happy. i talked to my friend in japan today and told him “wow, hawaii is soooo hot!!!!” he told me “you better not say that to anyone in japan or they will kill you!” haha. but wow, it was so hot today!
last night was such a clear night. no clouds and the most amazing sunset. i’m really coming to find out that i have to live right on the beach someday. if i can see the sunset every evening, i will be the happiest man on this planet.
when i took my daily drive past diamond head this morning, i knew it was going to be an epic surf day for us.
surfed in the morning with Uetani-san. was stoked watching him get so many good long rides at bowls. super energetic hard core surfer!
then went surfing in the afternoon with Inaida-san and Yuki-san. it was only us surfing perfect rights!!! nobody around!!! Go-Yuki-san!
Inaida-san is turning down the face of the wave really good now. the next step is mentawai where i guarantee he will get barreled!
and with these strong off shore winds, surfboards like to hit people in the head. be very careful!!!!
i’ve been longboarding a lot recently since the waves have been small. cross step or hang 5, i love it!
and yes, i keep telling myself every day and every night. “hey Kirby, you have the best life in the world!” amen!
