been surfing so much these days. 2 rounds averaging 4-5 hours in the water per day. it’s been really hot but jumping into the cool water feels so good. and the free air conditioned trade winds make it even better. my surfing days will continue for the next 11 days then i’m off on my adventure again. i’m just hoping for a super typhoon and super big barrels. we will just have to wait and see! if not, there is still fireworks and matsuri going on. i better get my kimono out. haha.
the Matsumoto-san family is so cool. always joking, laughing, and having a great time. i couldn’t stop laughing at their black jokes yesterday. just entertainment all day!
i tell every single person i take surfing “please take your time paddling out. it is very far so if you paddle fast, you will get tired by the time you reach the waves.” i know it gets so exciting when you paddle a surfboard for the first time and you just want to go fast. but taking your time is the key to saving your energy for your first wave of your life.
Noe-chan’s first time surfing. she did really great!
Alyssa showing her longboarding skills.
Watanabe-san heading toward Diamond Head. gosh, i love photos like this!!!
another great day in the water with great people! surfing will keep us all together forever!
