omg, what a beautiful day! the sun was shining, the sky was blue, the waves were good, the water was warm, and lots of aloha in the air. glad to be back to my ultimate paradise!
Toda-san and Takami-san were super cool enough to pick my brother and i up from nagoya airport. it must be a 3-4 hour drive from their house? these are my super good friends and they treat me like family. i am really thankful to have people like this in my life! we ended up sightseeing around nagoya and ate some super delicious 100 yen sushi. and i was surprised to see Fujiki-san!!! OMG, Fujiki-san came to the airport just to say hello. thank you all for being so kind!
i board the airplane and slept before we even took off. slept through and woke up 20 minutes before we landed. i must have been tired but as soon as i hit the ocean and saw some perfect waves, i woke up! super stoked to be back home.
it was pretty empty today. we had the lefts to ourselves for over an hour. shoulder high perfect waves.
and yes, rainbows everyday with the tradewind weather.
Go-san and Chieko-san are here for their honeymoon and surfed in hawaii for the first time. this young couple had so much energy catching wave after wave. we surfed for 3 hours and was so happy to see them catching big waves and riding them forever! thank you both for the wonderful surf session!
like i said, i’m so glad to be back home. i travel the world but know where my home is, right here in hawaii.
then we drove by diamond head to check out the waves. seen some 4′ sets and super good! heard the north shore has some waves too. perfect timing again!
i watched today’s sunset driving home as i told myself “gosh, i have a great life.”
