the swell forecast in the philippines changed everyday. one day looked like there will be waves, the other day flat. we just kept positive and things came our way as another typhoon came out of nowhere and formed in the perfect place. i almost changed my plans midway “should i fly to japan? should i fly to taiwan? i was ready to move but when i thought about the chance of finding a perfect barrel at the end of the road, i kept patient. and patience paid off as the last day was the best barrels i’ve seen in a long time. and the good thing about it is that only a few people in this world knows where it is. so the next time i go, i’m sure nobody will be out. that’s awesome!
my brother is 100% japanese but it’s his first time to japan. everything was amazing him just like it use to amaze me. so i know the feeling of culture shock riding trains and stuff. i was sleeping while he was wide awake checking out everything.
he even stood up to see where we were going. after we arrived at nagoya station, he was putting his train ticket into the exit machine. then i just ran away and hid around the corner. you should have seen his face. haha.
delta just upgraded some business class seats. can you believe it goes full flat and has a massage button? yeah, the freaking chair gives you a massage. i had it on the whole time.
and last, i teach my students always to look away from other surfers because where you look, you will go. Go-san seen a guy right in the way but turned his head and looked the other, avoiding a big accident. Go-san on one side, i’m on the other taking this photo. see that poor guy hiding under his board? haha. i asked him nicely to get out of the way earlier but didn’t listen. so i went down our surf highway anyway! after that, that poor guy went in.
surfing advise: if you surf local spots, don’t wait in the inside or somebody might run you over. i see it happen all the time.
