what a great way to start off the north shore season. woke up at 4am, left at dark, pulled up to pipeline/backdoor, watched a few waves in the moonlight, then decided to go to v-land because i knew it was going to be much better. i paddle out and was in the perfect cycle. wave after wave in one of the most heaviest lineups in the world. hungry pro surfers from all over the world and hungry locals battling for every wave. this is the major league of surfing and it felt good to back surfing with hawaii’s elite surfers. i got my first 4 barrels of the season before the sun came up and i had enough. the wind came, the rain came, and so did the hungry crowd. i came in at 7:40am and was back in my house before 9am drinking an acai smoothie. what a productive morning! then i pick up Nanami-san and we go surfing at rockpiles catching wave after wave. super cool day! by the way, v-land had 30 guys out hassling for every single wave that broke out there. it’s like a game trying to get a good wave out there. been sitting in my little perfect spot for the past 25 years and got some good barrels! felt so good!
the cars of locals and surfers from all around the world surfing the best spot on the island this morning, v-land!
as i was driving past waimea bay, it was raining and storming. yucky weather.
then i get back to town and perfect blue sky! i love town!
wanted to thank Usui-san for the snacks and red bull. if i drink one, i won’t be able to sleep. maybe i’ll save it for the next full moon surf session.
and wanted to welcome back and thank Daisuke for bringing me back some mizunasu. omg, this is my favorite from osaka! good with my morning natto/raw egg breakfast set.
and want to congratulate Kosei-san for his team azuki catching this massive marlin! sashimi for everyone!
well, surfing all day again tomorrow. north shore season is finally here so going to find ways to make it out to get my fair share of barrels! so happy!
