good morning. yesterday will go down in the japanese history surfing books for sure! i’ve been coming here chasing typhoons for 20 years and this is the craziest day i’ve ever seen! i pulled up to this secret river mouth at 5:30 am and seen perfect 2-3′ waves breaking better than macaroni’s in the mentawai’s. i surfed 2 rounds in the morning and by lunch, the waves were maxing out at 10′ hawaiian scale. typhoon 12 came with a bang. broken boards, perfect barrels, and a lot of aching bodies. i don’t think i’ll ever witness what i seen yesterday in shonan for the rest of my life…
the waves were perfect, but at the same time, really dangerous. the crowd was mellow and the vibe was great. everybody looking out for one another. and if you asked any local surfer today, they would tell you that today was “The Day!” this waves is solid 8′ hawaiian scale….
even though i’m going on a boat to timor next week, i’m going to miss japan. surfing in japan is the best for me because of the people, the vibe, and the barrels…. this is not andy irons, this is a japanese local charging big!!!
another local is hiromichi soeda. a legend surfer with a legend style. i love watching him surf….
to put a happy ending to a happy historic day, look what showed up last night. that isn’t a big orange ball on the left, that’s the full moon japan style. i took 864 photos so you haven’t seen anything yet. stay tuned!!!
hey, yesterday was yesterday and today is today. it’s 4:30 am and i’m going to the same place, same time. hopefully get more and more barrels! have a wonderful day!!!
