Cross Step and Captain Me

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there’s been a big dead whale floating in the ocean on the east side. i know a couple of fisherman that heard about it 2 days ago, sped out there, and caught so many fish like mahimahi and maguro! then the sharks came in, then the DNLR decided to tow it to the harbor today. gosh, it must be so stinky!
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ok, check out miracle surfer girl. Nanami-san sent me an email about a month ago asking for me to teach her how to surf. being from freezing cold colorado, she was eager to come to hawaii for a week vacation. i took her surfing 5x in the last week and she went from total beginner to semi-pro. she learned about the waves, winds, currents, boards, locals, wildlife, and how to enjoy surfing. today was our last day and i couldn’t believe how good she got. we surfed 3 hours, she caught so many long waves, and still wasn’t tired. what an amazing woman!
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it takes normal surfers years and years on how to cross step. Nanami-san learned it in 3 days. i showed her how to do it on the beach, and she paddled out and did it! what a super cool photo! Thank you Nanami-san for the great week in surfing. i’m so proud of your progress and i’m sure you will get better and better. enjoy your powder snow winter and see you next summer. we will get you to hang 5!
写真 4
last night celebrating my b-day with my circle of friends. thank you all for coming and thank you Maki-san for trying to plan it as a surprise. i already knew something was fishy when you asked me over and over when my next day off was. haha. i was so happy to see you all!
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Maki-san gave me a captains hat for a present. she knows my dreams for years and when it comes true, i want to take her sailing wearing this hat!
i’m a very lucky person to have such a great life and great people in it. i appreciate every moment and every person. had another great day surfing and diving. now it’s my bedtime as 9pm nears. going to have another fun filled day tomorrow surfing with Mr. Abe from ishinomaki! We Are One!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide