i surf with the coolest people everyday. take Abe-san for example. Abe-san lives in Ishimomaki and was affected by the tsunami of 3/11. he pulled through, rebuilt, and is going strong. it’s his second time to hawaii and second surf every since. so when he hit the water, he was super happy and ready to surf!
Abe-san caught some really good waves. a few big freak sets and riding them as long as he could, smiling the whole way!
there was an interesting storm that morning. it stayed off shore changing the winds. we got it absolutely perfect when we were out. then as we went in, the strong onshore winds came. perfect timing!
it’s Abe-san’s 2nd surf since the tsunami that devastated his town. my goal was to get him into 2 years worth of waves. we were almost there as another perfect waves comes. i yell “GO” as he paddles into a perfect right at bowls, then down the line, i see a stand up paddle board lady drop in on his wave. i couldn’t believe it! no mannerism. shame on you lady!!!
thank you Mr. and Mrs. Abe for the great deserts!
i ate it all in 2 days! by the way, Abe-san is a pharmacist who has his own store in Ishinomaki called “Chouzaiyakkyuku clip (調剤薬局くりっぷ). stop by and say hello to this wonderful surfer!
keep on surfing and see you next march!
