omg! today was my first day off in a while but i felt like it was 15 days in one. started off at 4:30am reading my book, then checked the waves, then made a few calls, made my plans, and left home at 7am. had a great busy day, and just got home now at 9:30pm.
went to pick up Kairi and Reika Noro. it’s so weird how i took these 2 kids surfing 5 years ago when they were just two young aspiring pro surfers. now, every single person in japan knows the Noro’s and they are on the top of their game. featured in magazines, on the web, and winning contests. all i wanted to do today with these kids was to free dive, kendama, burgers, and scare them with the sharks! haha.
on days like this, the national weather service issues small craft advisories. that means small boats like mine stay out of the water! a huge storm with thunder and lightning heading to our islands as we were heading out to dive. Reika had my go-pro and documented our day. as i was diving, i could see flashes hitting the water, those flashes was lightning! not another single boat was out with us.
the kids never never turtles or sharks underwater so that was my goal of the day. we seen so many turtles and a huge shark in the first hour. when the shark came out of the hole, Kairi jumped on my back, and Reika grabbed my arm. i could hear them screaming in their snorkel and i couldn’t stop laughing.
then we started getting serious as i know Kairi loves to spearfish. i let him use my little gun and he did a great job! this kid was always a good listener. that’s why he’s a good surfer and that’s why he will be a great free diver.
when Kairi speared his fish, he was so happy! i think he’s going to get hooked on spearfishing and i’m happy for him.
Kairi was one of the Go-Naminori Official Bloggers from the beginning and he’s already had over a million views. CLICK HERE FOR KAIRI NORO BLOG and watch this kid go to the top of the world! nice catch today Kairi!
after all the rain, storm, onshore winds, thunder, and lightning, i went down to ala moana to meet Tokura-san. as while i was driving down, i seen the storm front moving off the island. see that blue sky off to the west? that means the front is passing by, the rain will stop, the sun will come out, and the winds will be north and straight off shore.
Tokura-san and i jump on my boat, speed out to bowls, and surf an amazing session. i’ve been so busy that i haven’t had too much time to spend with Tokura-san recently. but today made me realize what this amazing man has done for me. Tokura-san was actually the first person to believe in me and support my surfing career 21 years ago. and i owe it to him for all the success, barrels, and friends that came from knowing him. i was so stoked to see him surfing so good today!
i left the harbor this morning with the worst weather you can imagine, and came back this evening with the best weather you can imagine.
a very busy day, but a very happy day! friends are like gold and i feel like gold knowing i have so many special people in my life. thank you all!
