good morning. not really surprising but kelly slater won his 10th world title. i bet you anything that he’s retiring as of today. the cool thing about him winning is that he dedicated it to Andy Irons. that was cool….
as for the waves, small around the island. laniakea looks best but 40 guys out already. medium north/west swell coming tomorrow with no wind. expect epic surf!
when i was at haneda airport last week, i picked up my bag and it wasn’t completely closed. i heard something crack on the ground. guess what it was? my $1,300 canon lens hitting the ground. shit!!! i was in denial since then so i never bothered to check out the damage, until today. now i’m bummed…
i hung out and surfed with taxi-san for 3 days. we got to know each other pretty well. taxi-san told me that he’s “ame otoko” which means “rainman.” every where he goes, it rains. so the day he got here? yes, it was raining, storming, and freezing cold. it’s his first time to hawaii so even though he was here for 4 days, taxi-san hasn’t seen our blue sky….
taxi-san, the day you came, it rained. the day you left, it was sunny. this is how our sky usually looks like…
the cool thing about rain is it brings out the best rainbows. we’ve must have seen 15 hours of rainbows in the past 3 days….
by the way, i got back on october 31st. for 6 days straight, i surfed all day long! 30 hours of water time in 6 days is crazy for me. it’s my first, and hopefully not my last. i had a great time!!! yesterday and today is no water time for me. i’m staying indoors and let my skin take a break. but when tomorrow comes with the new swell, i’ll see you all in the water again… have a wonderful day!!!
