Wrong House? Wrong Santa?

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first, i want to say how happy it is to be back home. i went straight from the airport to the beach and as soon as i touched the water, i was reborn again. i don’t know what i’d do without the ocean.
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before i go to Seoul, i planned to go out of the airport to grab something to eat. but when i saw the temperature, i said forget it. try again in Japan.
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so i have a 9 hour layover in Japan. also planned to go into town to eat some ramen and sushi. but when i saw the temperature, i said forget it.
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i ended up reading half this book called “Norwegian Wood” by Haruki Murakami. very very interesting! then i stayed in the lounge the whole time and ate cookies, ramen, rice ball, peanuts, cheese, and everything i could get my hands on. then once i boarded my flight, i ate a bibimbap and slept like a baby until i landed in hawaii.
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i went for a surf and seen Dr. Brent in the parking lot getting ready for a dive. he invited me but i passed it up and this is what he caught. cool, maybe i’ll go tomorrow!
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then i finally got home this evening and seen some big boxes in my room. did the delivery guy drop it off at the wrong house? or did santa come down the wrong chimney? it didn’t matter as i opened it up. going to set things up and try to test it out tomorrow.
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my brother went on his first of two trips to the bicycle shop to buy bikes for the kids with the money donated from people around the world. now there are 10 less kids that have to walk 45 minutes to school. thank you to the people, including Yumi-san that donated money for the bikes.
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while i was walking down the street, i seen spiders for food. of course i had to try one. it tasted like spider. yucky!
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and also got my oily foot massage at $8/hour. felt pretty good but try to surf with this oil on your feet. it was very hard.
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check out the traffic jam to the airport. look at those 2 kids on the bike looking at me. i thought that was pretty crazy as if this was america, the mother and father would go to jail for doing something like this.
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and when i got home to check my email, i got a video message from my little girl Kalyan. she said “Koby, I miss you.” i almost cried.
welcome back to winter season hawaii. cold days to continue. i gotta get back to work and now i have a lot of motivation to work much harder so i can support the NHCC forever.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide