Teacher Kirby, I Believe I can Fly!

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gosh, i was so busy today. before i left my house this morning, i had a long list of things to do. the winds were super strong from the north and it was freezing cold. but as usual, i passed by the ocean anyway. most of the spots were super blown out and ugly but i thought of checking a secret spot i haven’t surfed for a while. the tide was good, the wind was good, and the swell direction was good. i only had 30 minutes to surf because i had too many things i had to do.
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OMG, the waves were chest high and PERFECT!!!! the waves were consistent and there was only one guy out. i paddled out and had a super fun session. ended up surfing for 2 hours because i was having so much fun. surf first, everything comes after. haha.
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then i checked out another spot and seen a 2 people out. probably the cleanest 2 spots on the island today. score!
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i haven’t been shooting for a while but have a job coming up on thursday. got out my equipment and got it ready for a photo shoot. i’m looking forward to going behind the lens again. can’t wait!
i just uploaded a few clips of my experience. a couple of my friends told me that i looked really happy in cambodia. i really was. i was happy to see all those kids happy. i tried to focus on all the positive things and there were a lot. Davis taught these kids a few english songs and they were singing it the whole time there. you would never think these kids have HIV because they look happier than most of the kids i see back home. it made me realize that all we need is love in our life and every thing will be alright. enjoy.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fTO2tXeb5E&noredirect=1[/youtube]

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide