today was an amazing day filled with amazing people. from dawn to dusk. might look a little busy but fun busy.
great to see Satoko-san back in hawaii. she hasn’t surfed since the last time she was here but she surfed like she was practicing every day. super good surfing this morning Satoko-san!
we surfed for 3 hours and for 2.5 hours, we had the whole place to ourselves!!! nobody near us and nobody to bother us. we just surfed, surfed, and surfed all alone!
then went to warm up with some hot pho.
then i went to meet Saito-san, Kanae-san, and Naoka for on afternoon dive. it wasn’t the best day for diving but we got to swim with a whole lot of turtles today. caught some fish, came in, and warmed up. today was probably one of the coldest days of the year. my feet are still freezing.
i always stop by and watch bowls on the way in to the harbor. and i always wish i had my surfboard. it looked super fun! here is Kanae-san getting the best front row seat.
then had dinner with my beautiful japanese surfer friends. these people are all so special and it’s amazing that we all came together through Go-Naminori!
and stoked to get updates from Hikaru-san who is in the mentawai’s with Kimura-san, Matsu, and Seigo-san. gosh, i wish i were there! why can’t i be in 2 places at the same time??? hey Hikaru-san, please take care of Kimura-san. taihen dakedo ganbatte ne! haha.
exciting fun busy days ahead. tomorrow i have a bikini photo shoot and i’m actually kind of nervous. better get to sleep. goodnight.
