good evening. gosh, i love my life. woke up this morning to epic conditions again. wanted to get barreled and wanted to catch fish. why not do both….
pulled up to backdoor this morning and once again, freaking going off!!! 3-5′ and epic!!!
i seen my friend from the east side randy myers out getting shacked. this is him riding his green wade tokoro on a flawless stand up backdoor barrel. yes, i was jealous. and yes, i ran to my car and got ready. paddled out and had such a fun session. it was uncrowded and every wave was barreling right and left. dream session…. so after 2 and a half hours of getting barreled, i went in, jumped in my car, and headed back to town with one thing on my mind. “dive”….
shawn met me at my house, we threw my dingy in the back of his truck, and we were off…. today was a perfect day to test out my new toy…. by the way, i’m thinking of a name for this dingy. any ideas? what about “pocket rocket?”… haha….
it was off to the east side. pulled up on the beach, backed the truck, and carried the boat into the water. the boat worked good, we speared so many fish, and we had a great time. it was like two adults playing like kids on the toy boat. i was laughing the whole time. and so were the guys watching from the beach. but when we got back with the fish bag full with fish, they weren’t laughing anymore…. too tired so photos coming tomorrow….
**then get this, i came home, turned on my computer, looked through some of the 40+ emails, and came across this one from kenji sahara….
this was from today. gosh, after i came home from diving, i forgot i even surfed today. i mean worked today. haha…. this is my office, an office i wouldn’t mind spending my life in. most of my friends hate their office but i love mine….
the sky was blue, the water was clean, and the waves were epic. i took off on a couple of waves today and watched as the lip was going over my head. that’s how beautiful it was. i was feeling high. natural high. guys calling this the best winter season ever. i agree!!! and 3 more swells on the way. tomorrow pipe should be 8′ and epic…. i’m out there…. oh, thanks so much kenji for letting me relive my morning. i really forgot about these barrels but now i remember. doomo arigato gozaimasu… lights out. good night….
