god morning. 5:45am wednesday morning. gosh, i’m tired. yesterday was just too long of a day. i’m sunburned and my body’s sore. surf report: town came up. see a lot of white wash at ala moana park. i’m guessing it’s shoulder high? north shore is on the way up. buoys jumped up overnight so i’m guessing 10′ by the end of the day? maybe bigger. we got our trade winds back so no epic sheet glass mornings for a while. either way, i’m going surfing. just surfing. taking a little break from diving. well, until my fish is gone…. anyway, have a safe and nice day!!!
check out another photo kenji sahara took of me yesterday. check out the lip going over my head. how beautiful is that? i was dreaming barrels last night. and when i think about my session yesterday, i don’t think i fell off my board once. i made every barrel. that’s how perfect it was… and that’s why my board didn’t break too…. gosh, i’ll keep these photos forever. kenji was shooting from first light yesterday morning. he was the only photographer out at backdoor for 2 hours. unheard of. one month ago, there would be 15 water photographers on a day like this. great job kenji….
when i’m traveling, i drink beer almost everyday. well, everyday. but when i’m in hawaii, i drink about once a week. i had this red stripe beer in my fridge from when kimura-san was here. last night, it was saying “drink me”… i had such an awesome day yesterday so i thought what the heck. “kanpai”[:?????????:]
**check out my t-shirt. bobby higa made this t-shirt for the boys one christmas about 8 years ago. i still have it. bobby made it for one of my dirtbag friends. i can’t say it but his last name rhymes with ball. haha…. it’s now my pajama’s and i like it…. thanks bobby….
**and last, gas prices going way up. $4.63 on lanai already. how’s that? it’s going to be a chain reaction. expect everything to go up, especially airplane tickets. that sucks…. i better stay in town today and save gas…. i must have spent over $2,000 on gas this past 2 months going back and forth to the north shore. ouch….
