Glassy Chazuke!

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i got up this morning at 4am. left my house at 7am, surfed, worked, meetings, shopping, phone calls, hot sun, salad bar, and i just got home now at 10pm. now i’ll work on my computer for 2 hours, then sleep very good. then wake up at 2am for a trip! no phones, no computers, no internet, no nothing. it’s just me, friends, the ocean, and nature. and if i don’t get back to oahu by friday, please call the coast guard.
photo 1
early morning power up with yamari shirasu. what a great way to start off my day!
photo 2
when we pulled up to diamond head, i couldn’t believe how glassy it was. surfed for 2 hours and had so much fun. it couldn’t have been a more beautiful day in hawaii.
photo 3
met Kyle, Kimura-san, and Atsuko-san in front of the ilikai this afternoon. very close people to me and i’m super stoked to be connecting wonderful people with wonderful people.
anyway, better get going. tomorrow is one of the most exciting days for me in a while. i’m leaving new hawaii and will experience some old hawaii. can’t wait to get away from the high tech world we live in! good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide