surfing is booming in japan. when i was there in april, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at ikumi beach in shikoku. cold water, full wetsuits, but full of fun!
and i totally understand when japanese surfers come to hawaii and are so happy to surf with only a few surfers out. it’s actually unbelievable for them.
but hawaii is hawaii and japan is japan. i actually miss surfing in japan. the surf culture is just so amazing.
when i need food, i just go dive.
and when i dive, i get food.
another steamed tako that’s going to go good with my beer! kanpai!