
surfing is booming in japan.  when i was there in april, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at ikumi beach in shikoku.  cold water, full wetsuits, but full of fun!

and i totally understand when japanese surfers come to hawaii and are so happy to surf with only a few surfers out.  it’s actually unbelievable for them.

but hawaii is hawaii and japan is japan.  i actually miss surfing in japan.  the surf culture is just so amazing.

when i need food, i just go dive.

and when i dive, i get food.

another steamed tako that’s going to go good with my beer!  kanpai!  
 
            
 
		
