Short board vs. Long board

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i had a fun time with these three young guys. just watching them enjoy surfing in hawaii for the first time was funny.
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Ryo-kun trying out short boarding for the first time. i watched and watched as he had a hard time paddling a tiny board in small surf so i finally offered him my longboard. he became much happier after that as he caught so many more waves.
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i kept on telling the boys to look forward but every time i rode along the side of them, they looked at me and fell. it was funny. but after a few wipeouts, they looked forward and rode perfectly!
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perfect surfing Hayato-kun! keep on looking forward. haha.
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i wish i took more trips with my friends when i was younger. it’s just a time in your life when there are no stress, lots of energy, and no worries at all. i’m sure the memories from this trip for these boys will last a lifetime.
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i’ve been watching these 3 omilu’s swimming out at rockpiles and bowls for the past 4 years. i wanted to go back and spear them but actually thought they were so cool, just like pets.
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this day the water was beautiful and i could have grabbed one with my hand. the next day, i saw my friend spear fishing out there and he told me he shot one. OMG! shock! now there are 2 lonely omilu’s that will probably never come back. that sucks.
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back to surfing. Ban-chan surfed so much that he couldn’t lift his arms at the end of the day. great form!
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and when Ryo-kun rode the longboard, he caught 10x more waves than the short board. some days are for long boarding, some days are for short boarding. this day was long for sure!
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thank you Hayato-kun! hope you are enjoying your long hawaiian vacation. see you in the water!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide