today was another wonderful day! went surfing this morning with Kamijima-san. a super good surfer and a really nice guy. always smiling! and i bet he was smiling because the waves were perfect!!!
we are in day 6 of this solid south swell and i don’t remember the last time the waves were this big for so long. everybody is totally burnt and surfed out. so am i. here in the lineup hanging out with the locals. yeah, the lineups here are pretty much locals only. but even us locals are very tired. very tired but as long as there are waves, we surf. that’s our life.
i was so stoked to see Kamijima-san catch so many good waves.
nice bottom turn and nice smile!
this was a big set! big drop!
then i went surfing this afternoon with Team Ina. the waves were still big and i was stoked to see everybody charging! here is Inaida-san flying down a set!
and Yuki-san. OMG! this one was big and steep but she took off and made the drop with a big smile. awesome surfing!
riding my last wave i seen Ren’s friend who just started surfing. i kept on telling him to look forward but he kept on looking at me. and where ever you look, you will go. the more he looked at me, the closer he came.
then right before he hit me, he jumped off and shot his board at my ankle. itai! i only can laugh because it’s normal for people who just start surfing to look and hit. haha. hey dude, look forward next time!!!
