Discovering Hawaii

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P1060387
just when i thought i knew everything about hawaii, i was wrong. not too far away is one of the most secluded beach in the world. no electricity, no houses, no people, no nothing. i didn’t even know this beach existed? so i anchor the boat, jump in the ocean, and swim to shore. then looking from the beach, i see a little perfect wave that was calling me to ride. i felt like i was in a foreign land.
P1060366
i get to the beach and see weird tracks. is that from a boat? is that from a car? what??? i follow it up the beach and see 2 turtles mating. green sea turtles going up the beach, mating, making babies, and going back into the ocean. pure national geographic tv material!
P1060432
then it was time to go home but felt like eating fresh fish for dinner. so i jump in again, first drop go down 40′, then it was either an Uku or Kumu in front of me for dinner. since i was craving sashimi, i hit the Uku. that easy. i could have dropped and dropped and caught fish after fish. but instead, i just took what i needed. that’s the way i hunt these days.
P1060428
gosh, it feels like heaven under there. so relaxed and so stress free. the only thing on my mind is watching nature play its role from the front seat. it’s breathtaking.
P1060426
perfect, sashimi for two. itadakimasu.
i’m still in the discovery hawaii mode. i know there are more places like this and i’m going to find it before the rest of the world does. no yelp, no lonely planet, no nothing. i will keep sacred places like this in my heart till i die. so don’t bother asking me where it is. mahalos.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide