yesterday was big and thick! swimming out to shoot photos at off the wall is crazy at that size. i give kamio and uske a lot of credit for swimming out there too. i don’t know if they were scared or not but i was pretty nervous looking at reef in the face while a ton of water is crashing over you. the waves came up fast and thick. i haven’t seen pipe/backdoor like that for a while…..
**the surf stories continue so here is Hawaii Surf Story 3 featuring Norihiko “Matchi” Nakayama….
yesterday morning, february 5, 2011:
6:10 am: i call matchi. hey matchi, i’m driving out, meet me at backdoor cause i want to get a shot of you.
7:00 am: matchi calls me. hey kirby, where are you? i’m driving past wahiawa. ok, i’ll meet you there.
7:35 am: i get to backdoor and park my car. get my camera out and walk to the beach.
7:45 am: i see matchi way down the beach near pipe waiting for me. i point to off the wall. he points out there too.
7:50 am: i swim out to off the wall straight through the waves. it’s big!! dangerous!! but i need to get the shot.
8:26:55 am: i see a wave, yell GO-MATCHI. matchi goes. he takes off, almost dug a rail. recovers. i take the first sequence shot.
8:26:56 am: here he comes. i keep my finger on the trigger hanging on to the wall with my other hand so i don’t get sucked over the falls.
8:26:57 am: he passes my by and this is the shot i was looking for. this is the moment i love…
we connect, we get the shot, matchi goes home, i go surf. all that happened in 20 minutes!!! i’m keeping the best shot for an upcoming magazine. stay tuned..
thanks matchi for your hard work, dedication, and big balls for pulling in. and thank you for taking care of the kids, shaping my boards, and being a great friend!!
