Round 1: Kai-san surfed for the first time a couple of days ago. we surfed until his body couldn’t handle anymore. he took 2 days to rest, and today he was as fresh as can be. as soon as we started to paddle out, i could see his paddling and confidence a lot better than before. then he caught his first wave and surfed it like he’s been surfing for years. perfect surfing wave after wave and at the end of the session, he told me “hamachatta” which means, “i’m hooked on surfing!” that’s what i like to hear.
Round 2: i’ve talked about Scott Countryman quite often on my blog. 12 years ago i met Scott in the philippines and we’ve been good friends since then. he was living the dream life. had a huge yacht, was the CEO of a multimillion dollar company, had lots of friends, surfed, free dove, and just was so happy. we clicked from the beginning and we kept in touch ever since. Scott still lives in the philippines living the dream life and i still envy him a lot. he stopped by in hawaii for a couple of days so we caught up. took him out for a surf and when he asked me “how is life?” i kept on going on and on explaining how good and happy i am right now. we surfed and had a great time. then as we said our bye bye’s, he told me “hey, you have an awesome life dude.” wow, those words meant so much to me. this is coming from a guy who i wanted to be like. thanks Scott for inspiring me all these years.
Round 3: Inaida-san and Yuki-san back to hawaii today! another 2 people who inspire me a lot. we have so much fun surfing and hanging out. just 2 great positive people i love to be around.
mizu nasu fresh from japan! my favorite!!
and the best of the best omentaiko! thank you Inaida-san and Yuki-san!
after surfing 3 rounds today, i am totally burnt! the waves were super fun all day long. just so perfect and warm! surfing with friends is the best feeling in the world. tomorrow i have to wake up at 4am so better get to sleep. it’s going to be another long day in the ocean! have a great evening and a good night!
