it’s so weird how i just remembered Noriko-san. we were exchanging emails just last year. Noriko-san’s mother is from Miyagi and they lost their house to the tsunami on 3/11. her father is 60 years old and they surfed for the first time last year. since then, they are hooked! we had a great talk today and i learned a lot about this wonderful surf family.
Papa Iwata-san is 61 years old!! OMG!!! he surfed well today and i was so stoked to see him so energetic! he’s a doctor who surfs!
Mama-Iwata-san does yoga so her inner muscle and balance was very impressive! she kept on wanting to ride wave after wave.
i was surprised to find out that Noriko-san is a doctor too! omg, a surgeon! probably the youngest doctor i’ve ever met before. i’m stoked she found surfing and i’m stoked that it has changed her life in a good way. keep on smiling girl!
on the way out, a baby turtle swam right under us. it was as natural as can be. sharing the ocean and waves together. i can’t wait to see what we will see today! i love the wild nature!
