had a great time surfing with Kumiko-san. another surfer girl that just wants to get better and better. and yes, she got better and better in one session.
perfect balance, perfect bending of the knees, and perfect looking forward. perfect surfing.
great job Kumiko-san! keep on surfing!
check out some photos Uchiyama-san from chigasaki sent me. this is shonan a few days ago!
it’s december, cold, and still everybody wants to surf!
i remember coming here to kugenuma almost everyday when i use to live in shonan. i would sit on this wall watching people all day long. i was so amazed on the japanese surf culture. and still am.
i actually surfed here about 10 times in my life. and all 10 times, it was this crowded. when i took off, i couldn’t turn because there were too many people in the way. haha.
and the thing that use to fascinate me the most was how dedicated japanese surfers were. the water was cold, the wind was cold, and the weather was cold. but there would be thousands of surfers in the ocean anyway. that’s how much japanese love surfing. i really respected that. thank you Uchiyama-san for these cool photos.
maybe next week i’ll go back to my roots of surfing in japan. stay at a hotel in kugunuma and surf this everyday? i think i will have fun!
