good evening. gosh, another great day of surfing here in japan. the waves were going off and it’s got to be in my top 10 sessions ever. and top 5 biggest waves i surfed here. i’m still stoked and buzzing about this morning. got barreled=stoked. got pounded=not so stoked. but you got to pay your dues. that’s the cool thing about surfing. you can have fun and ride good waves. then just get slapped on your ass. everyday your taking a risk while surfing but it’s worth the thrill.
oh, went on a little boat trip this evening. too sunburned and tired to download the photos. post them tomorrow. anyway, have a great evening and good night sleep. zzzzz……..
check out this photo my friend derek sent me. this is him doing a wheely with his vw dunebuggy. yes, that’s on the streets of hawaii. derek’s nuts. i remember the old days when we use to race around town and drive like we were in a nintendo video game. now 20 years later, doing the same thing. my friends and i will never grow up. never…..
if you think parking is expensive in hawaii, take a look at this. every 10 minutes is about a buck. and there’s no limit. last time we went to drink at the beach house in hayama, our parking bill was more than our food bill. taxi……
