omg again! the waves were omg so freaking good! perfect 3-5′, no wind, and peeling like something you would see only in indonesia. so far, the best summer ever! and the awesome thing is that there are 2 more back to back swells this week! i’m going to surf until i can’t surf anymore. and even more then that.
took Yokomura-san for a surf today. last year it was big, this year it was big too. but Yokomura-san caught way more waves, and had much bigger smiles.
it’s such a great feeling for me to see everybody enjoying surfing so much. Yokomura-san started surfing at the age of 48, and keeps on telling me how it changed his life so much. he wished he started earlier like most surfers, but i think starting late is better. more mature, more calm, more relax, and more stoke. it’s never too late to start surfing, just ask this happy man.
good bottom turn, good view, good surfing, and good day!
even i was so stoked surfing. haven’t long boarded in a while so felt good riding perfect waves for so long. i wish i could even ride it longer.
seen a lot of fish. that’s rare for out there.
just shot some locals enjoying a perfect summer surfing day.
i want to thank my mom for giving birth to me right here in honolulu. she couldn’t have picked a better place for a baby like me. look how beautiful this is!
then ate some pho and called it a day. thank you Yokomura-san for the wonderful morning. went surfing in the afternoon. wasn’t half as good as morning, but still fun.
more mega swells this summer! see you in the water!
