bowls packed early morning. Kimura-san, Carter, and i paddle out at 8am. waves were junk and everybody was coming in. then at about 8:30am, the wind turned off shore and the waves started getting better and better. by 9am, it was perfect! only a few locals out and one of the emptiest bowls i’ve ever surfed. got some barrels and had one of the best sessions in a while. score!
want to thank Akudo-san for the Standard California goodies! OMG, so stoked to get super good quality fashion clothes! thank you very much!
i learned throughout the years that you can’t cut corners when i comes to quality. all i want is quality things in my life. this is no exception.
been hanging out a lot with Kimura-san and Atsuko-san this past 2 weeks. surfing, eating, surfing, and eating. they usually come during the winter seasons, but seldom in the summer. so when they came this time, i kind of wanted to show them my honolulu kind of lifestyle. what i do and what i eat. surf good waves, eat good food, and meet good friends. there’s no better life than that. this time, Your Kitchen was the call, and pork bowl and loco was on the menu.
the best pork bowl on the island. and also the best loco moco on the island. if you haven’t tried here before, you better before it’s gone. good places like this don’t last too long.
then went for dessert at bubbies. macadamia nut ice cream, mint chip ice cream, and mochi ice cream. the best in hawaii.
then i went to bowls to check out the waves in the afternoon. it was going off! right when i pulled up, i seen my nephew Micah on a nice set wave.
i already knew what was going to happen.
yes, he was going to get barreled!
then i knew what was going to happen next.
straight up with full hawaiian power.
Micah is a very big boy but surfs very light. but when it’s time to hit the lip, he knows how to lay his weight into it and power slam the lip.
this is an awesome turn for a 200 lbs. hawaiian kid.
and of course, he makes it with ease.
i was so stoked standing on the beach listening to another surfer saying “omg, who is that???” i smiled to myself and left a very happy and proud uncle.
going sleep early because tomorrow will be bigger and better than today. good night.
