My Surfer Family

282

Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 12.54.39 PM
yesterday was kind of like my afternoon off. i really didn’t want to go in the sun, but my niece and her boyfriend wanted to surf so i couldn’t and wouldn’t say no. the last time i surfed with Temari was when she was 15 years old. 7 years later, here we are again. enjoying the beautiful ocean and enjoying the beautiful day. it was her first time ever surfing bowls so she was really nervous in the beginning.
Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 12.44.41 PM
then after a few good waves, she got it all back. walking to the nose and hanging five. surfing is in the blood. i love it!
Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 12.49.42 PM
it was Nate’s first time out at bowls too. i was laughing so hard watching this big boy riding some long waves and enjoying it so much.
Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 12.42.59 PM
hopefully i got Temari and Nate hooked on surfing out there. it would be a dream for me to see them out there everyday sharing the waves.
Screen Shot 2015-06-12 at 12.46.46 PM
one thing i learned from all the things that are happening in this world. family and friends are very important. take care of them, love them, and spend quality time with them. that’s exactly what i’m doing.
ikuko
oh, and wanted to thank Ikuko-san for the late night snacks from hokkaido!
i have a question: is the sun stronger and hotter than before? why am i so burnt?

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide