had a great time today down at the beach. woke up early and got a few waves at bowls. been a long time since i rode a short board so felt good doing off the lips. can’t wait for tomorrow! then after a quick morning session, it was time for work. i love it!
the other day i was paddling out and seen something weird. a big guy holding a football? doggie? anyway, this guy came flying down the line so i kept on looking…
as he got close, i seen Kupe holding his baby! omg, his baby was super stoked!!!!
then they caught another one. i even saw Kupe put his baby in the tube! it was the coolest thing i ever seen. a year old baby already getting barreled???? OMG!
his baby was totally stoked paddling back out.
we are so lucky to live in beautiful hawaii. and this baby is so lucky to have such a great father. seeing things like this makes me so happy!
an octopus is the coolest creature. it’s amazing how smart they are. so smart that if you spear it in the hole, it will stay in there and die. so the trick is to tease it out of the hole, then grab it with your bare hands. then bring it home, wash it in hawaiian salt, put it in a pot, boil it, and make tako poke. it can’t get any more fresh than that.
