Surfing Shonan: The Day!

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another day that seems like years ago. but it was only a few weeks ago? really?
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my wonderful morning session with my shonan friends. Saito-san, Eri-chan, and Matsu.
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the waves were so perfect this day and i’m super happy to have shared it with my special friend i’ve known for a very long time. paddling out for our morning session watching many unridden waves was exciting!
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want to thank Matsuo for always being a super great friend and a super kind local to us.
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this is the shonan lifestyle. it brings back so many memories when i use to do this every single summer. surf in the mornings and have parties at nights. i use to love it and i still do!
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then the second afternoon session was like a bonus! perfect waves with friends 2 rounds in one day? that’s pretty unheard of. in fact, it was my first time surfing good waves twice in a day in shonan.
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been putting together photos for a presentation for the 8th grade kids. going to show them the before and after photos of some of the places we visited. here is kobuchihama a few weeks ago. we were so happy to see this beautiful fishing village back up in full swing. can you believe they built up the height about 6′ for this whole fishing port? yeah, after the tsunami, this port would be underwater on high tide.
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i’m guessing it’s anago season?
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i’m always impressed by the traditional japanese way of fishing. i would love to work on one of these fishing boats. hopefully when i retire, i can spend a few years up there fishing and drinking hot sake. just the simple life i always am inspired by.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide