so stoked to see Hashimoto-san surfing so much better. we had another day of boot camp yesterday and i can see him much more relaxed and confident. relaxed and confident equals good surfing!
i watch every ride from start to finish. so when i see someone on a good one, i always give the fist pump! this was a good one!
you have to be very fit or very good to even make it out past the breakers these past few days. sometimes you can get lucky and duck dive 5 waves, and sometimes it will take 40 waves to get out. either way, it’s nerve racking to see the blue horizon start to move as a mountain of water starts to build and come straight towards you. then to turn around and catch it is the best feeling in the world! awesome surfing Hashimoto-san!
some people think duck diving is the best way to get out. i don’t think so. the best way to get out is to throw your board and dive under the wave. if you do it right, you will pop right out the back with little resistance. just like how Hashimoto-san did on this wave. all morning, my friends kept on asking me “is your friend ok?” i said “of course, we are in training now.” haha.
oh boy, i got some really good waves too! rode the fat bat and flew down the line on every wave i caught.
went to the Moniz house last night. Joshua and Seth packing for their first ever japan typhoon chasing swell. i really wish i could go with them but have too much work here in hawaii. they are heading off to okinawa and i’m sure they will enjoy the crystal blue barrels and mensore spirit.
since it’s their first time chasing typhoons, they really don’t know what to take. i try to give them as much as advise as i can, but i kind of want them to figure things out on their own. i’m sure they will shine once they get in the water.
want to wish Seth a happy 18th birthday! i can’t believe this kid is already an adult. and i can’t believe this down to earth kid is a surfing champion.
good luck boys chasing typhoons. next one i will join you guys for sure. just keep on respecting locals just like you always do. be humble, be kind, be respectful, and be happy. tell all my friends in okinawa i said hello. surf hard and get the job done. ganbatte ne!
