spent the morning coaching this coolest kid Aoi. for the past couple of years, i seen this kid getting better and better. catching all the waves in the inside and trying so hard. been helping him little by little but now it’s time to take it to the next level. i’m going to teach Aoi not only about surfing, i’m going to teach him about the ocean. winds, currents, lineup, reefs, people, and everything else that will shape him into a great surfer.
first rule: if you surf with me, you sit right next to me. and if you sit by me, you will get super good waves. if you don’t, you won’t.
second rule: follow me. i’m always looking around for the best peak. things change all the time in the ocean. timing is key. if i start paddling to another spot, just follow. Aoi and i surfed this perfect barreling peak all to ourselves. score!
today is saturday and nobody was out here. very rare so we had to take advantage. nice bottom turn Aoi.
i ride behind the kid yelling at him what to do next. i seen his level go up in just 2 hours of surfing. like i said, nobody was out. opps, there was one other surfer out. that long boarder in the back is Aoi’s mom. we scored!
and of course i had to get my fair share too!
after yesterdays rain, nobody came around ala moana because they thought the water was going to be dirty. wrong! yes, parts of ala moana was dirty, but if you know where to go, you will get perfect clean water just a few paddles away.
good job today Aoi. remember what i taught you today. and remember to study hard in school because school is very important for your surfing career! see you again soon!
