can you believe that there was yet another south swell today? gosh, it’s almost unbelievable how good this summer is. one of my friends from the north shore Mikey told me today, “brah, i don’t even remember a summer being this good!” neither do i, and probably everybody else. it’s already september and our summer is in full swing!
another coaching day with Aoi this evening. the waves were kind of big so i had to be extra strict on him getting waves. i could tell he was a little nervous in the beginning, but started getting comfortable towards the end. i told him “hey, if i say go, you go no matter what!” that’s how i learned how to surf big waves so i’m just passing it on to him. hopefully it will push him into charging bigger and better waves.
super stoked to see Aoi catching so many waves. the more waves he catches, the better he will get. pretty simple.
and of course i have to get my fair share. actually got a backside barrel today.
this was on of Aoi’s best waves. i say overhead and super perfect. now he has a taste for good quality waves so hopefully that will get him excited to do it again and again. good job today kid!
Reid on a rare evening session. thanks bro for giving us that awesome wave!
this kid is going to get good. i can see it in his eyes that he wants it!
for a guy to get attacked by a great white shark during a contest is nuts. and to overcome his fear and still compete right after that is more nuts.
Jaws Attack survivor Mick Fanning won the 2015 Trestles Contest in California today. now he’s rated the #1 surfer in the world. if he wins the world title this year, it would have to be the most incredible and inspiring story in the entire history of surfing. so inspiring that i can see a hollywood moving in the making. don’t be surprised.
