NGO Surfers and HNL Mangos

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i had so much fun yesterday surfing with Kimura-san and Anna-san. Kimura-san surfed a few times in hawaii and bali before. it was Anna-san’s first time. so happy to hit the water together!
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Anna-san started to get the groove. she caught so many waves in the morning session. i kept on asking her “aren’t you tired?” she kept on saying “no.” i was amazed on how much energy she had. i guess it’s called “pure stoke.”
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Kimura-san surfed really good. he just kept on going and going. so happy watching him enjoy surfing so much.
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and also catching some good waves. gosh, i just love these kind of shots with diamond head in the back. so beautiful and so fun!
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we came in after 2.5 hours for lunch. then paddled back out for an afternoon session. i still can’t believe how much energy they both had. i think i was more tired then them. haha.
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it was great to take a break before sessions to check out the most beautiful view in the world.
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lovely surfer couple! thank you both for a wonderful time!
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i was craving mangos again so i call my friend. she said “come anytime!” i get to her house and nobody’s home. i go to the back yard and climb on the shack to get closer to the juicy mangos. as i was climbing up, my foot slipped and i lost my balance. i was stuck 8′ up on the roof of the shack hanging upside down. i was going to yell for help but i was too embarrassed. so i hung there for a couple of minutes, thought what to do, and finally figured out i have to do this alone. so i think like a monkey, turn back upside, and crawl my way back onto the roof. by then, i was super dirty and super embarrassed. i pick a bag of mangos and leave. i just hope nobody saw me because that would be a funny youtube video for sure. haha.
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then came home and getting ready to make more homemade kombucha. can’t live without it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide