good evening. still got some waves in town. surfed kewalo’s this morning. the most packed kewalo’s i’ve ever seen. i’d say over 30 guys out, with a lot of japanese. seen mito, maki, carter, and even ross williams out there. chest high and super fun. today is king kamehameha day in hawaii? what does that mean? i don’t know. i guess it’s just another hawaiian holiday… hope yo all had a good one…
i dropped by my sisters house to check out the kids. seth was in the kitchen cooking his own lunch. when i seen that, i had a flashback. when i was young, we use to cook for ourselves too. even do our own laundry and stuff. i’m really thankful to my mom because that made us all independent. i could have been thrown out into the jungle as a kid and probably survived. i think my sisters kids could do the same….
this is rocky cannon. i met rocky back in 1993 when he came over to japan for the minami cup. i took care of him and nainoa surrat for a couple weeks. they were like 13 years old or something. we went to izu, chiba, and niijima together. rocky was always cool and humble. and still is. back then, rocky was only dreaming of surfing pipeline. these days, rocky paddles out there and gets pretty much any wave he wants. he gained that respect over the years. he’s a pro surfer, lifeguard, realtor, and told me that he wants to be a teacher someday. i learned that “leading by example” is the best way to teach kids and rocky is that perfect example. a solid role model… this was at the bowls contest. thanks for the lift….
hey everybody, INTERNATIONAL SURFING DAY is this coming June 20, 2008. get out there on that day and do something good…. surfing magazine posts photos from around the world of that day. so will i…. whether it be surfing or doing something good, send me a photo from that day and i will post it too.. mahalo…
***and last, i’m watching the maldives contest live right now. hawaiians are advancing. all japanese lost. sunny garcia and kekoa bacalso looks pretty solid just winning thier heats. joel centeio surfing now with dustin quizon up next. CLICK HERE FOR LIVE….
