Back to the Future or Back to the Past?

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been hearing about the waves back home. big waves on the north shore, still epic waves on the south. contest season started, boys going off, and another shark attack. poor 10 year old kid gets attacked in makaha. more wild news world wide but for me, the waves and news is the farthest thing on my mind. all i can think about is to enjoy every single minute of my life where ever i go, and where ever i end.
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took a walk this morning into the streets. just enjoying the fresh air, culture, people, and food. mexico is such an amazing place! but when i get back to hawaii, i won’t eat a taco or burrito for 6 months. i had too many tortillas and beans already. haha.
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morning breakfast call for locals.
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i was waiting at the bus station to get a bus to the airport this morning. i saw the funniest thing. a guy was painting the counter where everybody was going to buy tickets. there was wet paint everywhere! the guy before me had it all over his pants and hands. if this was america, i could see a lawsuit for sure. one worker will get fired, and one customer will be rich. but no, not here in mexico.
well, the day has come. going to jump on an airplane to another country where time stands still. pretty much going back to the past. no mcdonalds, no wall marts, no 7/11’s, no phone service for me, and no internet. heard there is one place to get connected but not to sure if i’ll go there or not. kind of want to take the next few days to go back 50 years in time. enjoy the culture, enjoy the food, and enjoy the people. it’s kind of a once in a lifetime experience for me because i know things will change there really fast. and now is the time and only time to get it as pure as it gets. see you in a few days!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide